street food in bangkok

                                                   Holiday in Thailand

 

 

Mee Phat Krachet: The best Thai dish you’ve never heard of 

It's one of Thailand’s most satisfying but little-known noodle dishes. Here's where to find it in Bangkok

Take the thin rice strands known as "sen mee" and fry them in a wok with "phak krachet" -- pungent water mimosa -- and you have sen mee phat krachet, one of Thailand’s most satisfying, but least-known noodle dishes.
Often associated with seafood restaurants, mee phat krachet is usually served with rings of squid and fresh shrimp or prawns, although some restaurants also do a mixed version that includes slices of pork, or just straight pork or chicken versions.
Providing the dish with a little bite, the noodles are typically studded with a coarse chili and garlic mixture and are seasoned with fish sauce.
A good version of the dish bears scars of the wok’s heat and a slightly smokey aroma. Below are some of the better places in Bangkok to get mee phat krachet.

Sor Na Wang

The seafood-heavy mee phat krachet at Sor Naa Wang.This tiny shophouse restaurant in old Bangkok excels at fried noodle dishes, and not surprisingly, their mee phat krachet is one of the best in town.
Generous rings of squid and shrimp mingle with slightly singed noodles, lots of water mimosa and plenty of garlic and chili.
To top it off, the dish comes with a deliciously tart dipping sauce that combines sliced fresh chili, chopped shallots, fish sauce and lots of lime.
156/2 Thanon Din Sor; +66 (0)2 622 1525. Open daily, 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Price: 70 baht/plate.

Pet Tun Jao Tha (Duck Noodle House)

A dish of mixed mee phat krachet at Pet Tun Jao Tha.The noodles of this vendor’s take are dark from fish sauce, and tangled among them are squid, shrimp and slices of lean pork.
Ample seasoning and lots of chili and garlic make this one of the more full-flavored versions of the dish, although we wish they’d use more phat krachet.
The restaurant is also known for its duck and goose dishes.
945 Soi Wanit 2 (opposite Harbour Department office); +66 (0)2 233 2541. Open Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Price: from 50 baht/plate.

New Srifa 33

Mee phat krachet, New Srifa 33.It’s not on the menu, but upon request, the cooks at New Srifa 33 can put together a decent version of mee phat krachet.
The noodles arrive at the table laced with a generous amount of garlic and chili and a handful of small prawns.
Despite the rather formal surroundings and the price tag (200 baht for a small dish), it’s probably the most rustic version of the dish that we encountered.
1219/ Soi 33, Sukhumvit Road. +66 (0)2 258 2649. www.newsrifa33.com. Open daily, 5 p.m.-3 a.m. Price: 200 baht/plate.

Leng Kee

Mee phat krachet as served at Leng Kee. Located in a grubby shophouse a short walk from Rama IV Road, Leng Kee specializes in fried noodle dishes, including a respectable mee phat krachet.
The noodles here are served with marinated pork, beef or chicken, as well as lots of water mimosa and chili; the generous addition of the latter makes it one of the spicier versions out there.
Leng Kee is popular, and with only one person working the wok and many to-go orders, the wait can be long.
80/9 Soi Chula 46; +66 (0)2 215 4324. Open Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Price: 40-50 baht/plate.

Je Ngor’s Kitchen

A dish of mee phat krachet with prawns, Je Ngor’s Kitchen.This seafood mini-empire, with several branches across Bangkok, does what is almost certainly Bangkok’s most decadent take on mee phat krachet.
The noodles here are served with several large prawns and come laced with tomalley -- fatty prawn liver. This richness is cut by a generous amount of garlic and slightly less chili and water mimosa.
The seasoning borders on the sweet, and this is the mee phat krachet for seafood, not spice, fans.
11/F, YWCA Building, 25 Sathorn Tai Road; +66 (0)2 677 3927. www.jengor-seafoods.com. Open daily, 11 a.m.-2 pm and 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Price 100-300 baht/plate.

Bangkok, New Orleans, Florence voted tops for food and wine

In a surprise for many, Bangkok edges out Hong Kong to clinch top spot on Tripadvisor.com’s Travelers' Choice list

As well as being renowned for quality street food, Bangkok has a diverse range of high end dining options like Sirocco restaurant at Lebua hotel.

Travel website Tripadvisor.com has announced the winners of its 2011 Travelers' Choice Food and Wine Destinations awards, with New Orleans, Florence and Bangkok taking top honors in the United States, Europe and Asia, respectively.
The inaugural Travelers' Choice Food and Wine Destinations award winners are based on traveler ratings and TripAdvisor reviews.
For many, Bangkok edging out Hong Kong to claim top prize in the Asia category comes as a surprise, given Thailand's high taxation rate on imported wine, and all imported alcohol.
Though Bangkok might be making great strides in wine appreciation, it's definitely the food and not the drink that earned this street food mega-city its top spot on the list. For an eatery on the upper end of the price scale, check out this list of Bangkok's top high-end Thai restaurants.
More on CNNGo: Wine bars of Bangkok
Long revered for its spicy mix of culinary cultures -- including Creole, French, African, Cajun, Native American, and, lately, Asian influences -- New Orleans remains one of the world's prime travel destinations for eating.
Any "best of" New Orleans restaurant list is likely to start a heated argument, but NewOrleansRestautants.com is a good place to find a great meal.
Italian cities dominated the European list with Rome, Sorrento, Bolonga and Siena making the top 10.
Here are the full lists of Asia, United States and European winners.

2011 Travelers' Choice Food and Wine Asia Destinations 

1. Bangkok, Thailand
2. Hong Kong
3. Seminyak, Indonesia
4. Singapore
5. Sapporo, Japan
6. Hoi An, Vietnam
7. Kyoto, Japan
8. Seoul, Korea
9. Osaka, Japan
10. Koh Samui, Thailand

2011 Travelers' Choice Food and Wine U.S. Destinations 

1. New Orleans, Louisiana
2. Napa, California
3. Chicago, Illinois
4. Charleston, South Carolina
5. San Francisco, California
6. New York City, New York
7. Savannah, Georgia
8. Santa Fe, New Mexico
9. Las Vegas, Nevada
10. Asheville, North Carolina

2011 Travelers' Choice Food and Wine Europe Destinations

1. Florence, Italy
2. Paris, France
3. Rome, Italy
4. Sorrento, Italy
5. York, England
6. Siena, Italy
7. Bologna, Italy
8. San Sebastian, Spain
9. Barcelona, Spain
10. Edinburgh, Scotland
For the full list of winners, including cities in South America and India,

What are your thoughts? What is your favorite food and wine destination?

 

 A guide to Bangkok's best street food guidebooks

Navigate the city's eating scene with these English-language maps, cards and books

As anybody who’s recently had to dodge a food cart, circumvent a sidewalk noodle stall or been asphyxiated in a cloud of chili smoke can attest, food quite simply dominates the streets of Bangkok.
Yet despite all this quantity, it can be a challenge to locate the quality. And while there are volumes of Thai-language books that lead locals to the best noodle stall, shophouse restaurant or snack vendor, there is only a handful of English-language guidebooks to Bangkok’s best restaurants and street eats.
With this in mind, we’ve done our homework to help you find the right one.

Ideal Map: Good Eats

Although the English-language version is currently out of print and some of the recommendations are pretty outdated, this series of food-centric maps is one of the better guides to Bangkok’s eating scene.
"Good Eats" takes the form of large laminated maps of three Bangkok neighbourhoods (Rattanakosin, Sukhumvit and Yaowarat).
As the English-language maps are translated directly from their Thai language counterparts, there’s an emphasis on the crusty, longstanding places that serve what is arguably Bangkok’s best food.
Reviews are brief and objective, and list a couple recommended dishes, but without any background information, you’ll need to be at least somewhat familiar with Thai food.
A lack of any Thai script (handy for pointing to in moments of linguistic uncertainty) is a big downside here.
This is the guide for you if: You need to brush up on Bangkok’s classic eateries.
Price: 89 baht. Available at Kinokuniya (Emporium branch, BTS: Phrom Phong)

Famuluous Eateries Bangkok

If you don’t want to be marked as a guidebook-clutching rookie while out noodle hunting, consider "Famuluous Eateries Bangkok," a box of 52 discreet cards profiling street stalls and restaurants.
There’s Thai script, accurate maps and transport information, and the authors seemingly made a conscious effort to go past the usual tourist-frequented suspects to include eateries in Bangkok’s ‘burbs.
On the downside, the descriptions were clearly not written by native speakers of English, leading to some bizarre examples of writing. And lack of any background information means you’ll need know your Thai food basics to really take advantage of these cards.
This is the guide for you if: You’ve lived in Bangkok for a while and want to expand your culinary horizons without looking like a tourist.
Price: 345 baht, available at all Kinokuniya branches in Bangkok

Thai Hawker Food 

Authors: Kenny Yee and Catherine Gordon
This book, originally published in 1993, is probably more quaint and entertaining than it is authoritative, but if urban street food spotting were a hobby, this would most likely be its field guide.
Rather than focus on specific stalls (although there is a recommendations section that is now hopelessly out of date), the bulk of Thai Hawker Food divides Thai street dishes into categories depending on how they’re cooked, with endearing cartoons and sketches to depict them.
These are accompanied by brief descriptions in English and the Thai-language names. Style seems to take precedence over content in this book, and the descriptions of the dishes can sometimes be unhelpful or vague.
This is the guide for you if:  You still don’t know your khao phat from your kuay tiaw.
Price: 200 baht. Available at Asia Books, city-wide

Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls

Author: Chawadee Nualkhair
If you’re willing to accept the word "Top" subjectively and don’t mind that more than half the places mentioned aren’t stalls, but rather shophouse-bound restaurants, this recently-published book is a good crash-course in informal Thai dining.
In addition to helpful background info on the various Thai street dishes, "Bangkok's Top 50 Street Food Stalls" includes lots of pics and illustrations, detailed contact info and illustrated maps spanning 50 different restaurants, shophouse restaurants and street stalls.
Dainty diners will be pleased to learn that the reviews also include detailed information on each eatery’s bathroom situation. A lack of Thai script for dishes coupled with inaccurate transliteration might be obstacles for those who can’t speak Thai.
This is the guide for you if: You’re a first-time visitor to Bangkok and are wary about eating off the beaten track.

 

 Street fare and last meals: Thailand's top 20 executive chefs talk food

Cooking together for a good cause tonight, the country's top toques dish on Thai food culture and Bangkok dining

Chefs and business partners pose before getting down to work at this year's Bangkok Chef Charity Gala Dinner.

Tonight -- August 4 -- some of the Kingdom’s top chefs will step out of their kitchens to donate their time and talent to cook up a storm for a good cause: the Bangkok Chef Charity Gala Dinner 2011. 

At the annual event, held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Bangkok, the executive chefs of participating five-star hotels pair-up to create a nine-course menu that is forecast to be an Epicurean’s delight.

Post dinner, the services of the chefs go under the hammer; the city’s gastronomes bid for a gourmet meal for six people to be prepared by a selected pair. Proceeds from the dinner and the auction go to benefit underprivileged children in the remote areas of Thailand. 

Here, 20 of the participating executive chefs share some of their favorite culinary experiences.

What's your favorite thing about Bangkok's food culture?

A selection of canapés and hors d’oeuvres by chefs Jose Borja, Mario Hofmann, Dominique Bugnand, Santo Zoppis and Adrian W. O’Herlihy.Leslie Stronach, InterContinental Bangkok

"My favorite and most memorable experiences have been the street food here. In the last 10 years I have lived here twice, and there are vendors still around, delivering a consistent product. The passion and freshness of Thai food is and always will be a part of my memories."

More on CNNGo: Best Bangkok street food hoods

Erwin Eberharter, Dusit Thani Bangkok

"For me it is the excellent street food, the exotic herbs and spices, recipes from the 18th century that are still in use, and the fact that street hawkers are encouraged and not banned like in some other Asian nations.

"Thai sweets are also a very special art, and are made from recipes passed down through the centuries. In terms of international cuisine, many guest chefs visit each month as some of the world’s finest establishments are keen to show off their cuisine here."

Leonardo Concezzi, St. Regis Bangkok

"The city has a very variegated culinary scene, almost unlimited I would say, and for a chef this means being in the right place. Some of the best chefs in the world have passed through Bangkok, leaving their imprints, making things very challenging and exciting for all of us.

"The local culinary tradition is also very rooted and extremely interesting and I have highly 'trained' customers who recognise good food. For me the most interesting thing about Bangkok is the street food. If you walk around Bangkok with your eyes open, you will see a great food show, an immense recipe book with live pictures from which you can take unlimited inspiration." 

More on CNNGo: 7 reasons to check into Bangkok's St. Regis

Gael Lardiere, Royal Orchid Sheraton

"It is definitely the diversity of the food as well as the freshness of the products found here. With everything from street food to five-star cuisine, not many places in the world offer such variety.

"If you are up for the challenge you will never be hungry, as every corner in Bangkok has something for you to try. For me the eating culture here is also very special. The Thai people love to eat and it’s a part of the family rituals, networking, business deals –- everything is decided at the dining table.

"Instead of saying ‘Hi, how are you?’, Thai people greet each other with ‘Hi, have you eaten?’ I think that shows how important food is to their lives and their culture."

Black skinned cod on brandade with crystallized beetroot, compressed watermelon with organic rocket, created by chefs Frank Bohdan and Marshall Orton for the 2011 Chef Charity Dinner.Martin Faist, Plaza Athenee

"With so many different cuisines and choices the variety of food is endless. In particular, I love the Thai street food stalls which serve some my favorite dishes like the Thai spicy salads (Yum), Larb Nam Tok and Gai Yai. With the aroma and flavours of the various spices used it is impossible to resist them every time I walk past."

Mario Hofmann, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok

"I love Thailand’s vast variety of herbs and spices as well as the fresh ingredients that allow me to experiment and create new dishes. Also, the Bangkok dining scene is remarkably vibrant with food available 24/7, ranging from street eateries to fine-dining restaurants offering everything from almost every culture.

"Although Thais predominantly enjoy traditional Thai cuisine, eating out is essentially a family and social activity, which makes them relatively open-minded about food. This allows room for a chef’s creativity and culinary experimentations."

Santo Zoppis, Thai Airways International

"For me it is basically simple Thai food that I can have at any time around Bangkok, which in my opinion offers the best street food in Asia.

"You can eat Thai specialties around the clock at very affordable prices. I especially like Thai soups (kui tiew) and duck curry, but my favorite is rice with kapi, served with sweet pork, shredded green mango, eggs and chili." 

Where would you take an out-of-town friend to eat in Bangkok?

Michael Hogan, JW Marriott Bangkok

"I am a great fan of keeping it local. For lunch we would go to Aor Tor Kor, a fantastic market with perfectly ready-to-eat fruits and the vegetables, so fresh they jump out at you. The smell of peppers, green coriander and ginger accompany you as you wander through the stalls to the steaming hot bowl of duck noodles waiting for you at the very end.

"You can’t linger on this journey though, as twice I have arrived at my destination to find that his duck noodles are sold out and all he has left is a pile of carcasses and a big smile for you.

On the Chefs Charity menu: Filet mignon of grade seven marbled Wagyu beef with Shiraz-Cabernet and summer truffle sauce, gratin of new-harvested Spunta potatoes, tender needle beans and quick sautéed spinach leaves. By chefs Norbert Kostner and Michael Hogan."Another place great place for barbecued pork and duck noodles is Pra Jak, which is not far from the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station. The flavors in their soup are special. Again you have to get here early or you will be left with nothing more that the aromas of what could have been.

"It wouldn’t be fair to let a visitor leave without sampling mango sticky rice, especially when it’s served with yellow beans.

"The stall on the right-hand side of Sukhumvit Soi 38 does it really well. And she knows it as she is constantly peeling, slicing and scooping all night long. You have to watch the season and get it at the right time and then you are in for a treat.

"When friends come to stay, eating is at the top of the list. There is never enough of time to eat with me in Bangkok at all the places I like."

More on CNNGo: 10 of Bangkok's best street food stalls

Degan Septoadji Suprijadi, Banyan Tree Bangkok

"I would take them to Som Tam Nua at Siam Square. It offers many variations of the refreshing papaya salad and is frequented by many locals. Or I would take them to Fon Talop restaurant at Chatuchak market, which also has great somtam and northeastern-style cuisine and fried chicken to die for.

"For seafood it would be The Oyster Bar at 395 Narathiwas, Soi 24, which has a great selection of oysters, while for fine dining, the lunch buffet at Lord Jim’s in the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok has a great selection."

Frank Bohdan, Shangri-La Bangkok 

"Being an avid mountain biker who spends every day off cycling through the streets of Bangkok, I think this would be the best way to view life here.

"We would start the day with a short ride to Lumpini park for a great bowl of noodles served just outside the park. The soup is fragrant and delicious with small amounts of ground pork and green vegetables with soft rice noodles … simple, tasty and fresh. 

"From there on to one of my favorite areas of Bangkok, Phra Pradaeng. This oasis is a short boat trip across the Chao Phraya River and has a lush forested area, hidden pathways and plenty of native birdlife.

Poached Canadian Atlantic lobster, Peruvian asparagus, asparagus gelee, Avruga and dill, cooked up for the Chef Charity by chefs Degan Septoadji Suprijadi and Philippe Gaudal. "On the weekends there is a market that sells handmade items like jewellery, toys, handicrafts, clothes as well as plenty of freshly made local snacks. I usually eat a few of these snacks before ordering a plate of Pad Thai that is sold from a little boat moored to the elevated path near the market. 

"Leaving Phra Pradaeng we would head to Grossi at the InterContinental Bangkok hotel for an afternoon espresso and tiramisu sitting al fresco, people-watching and giving the body a much needed rest and hit of sugar. 

"Then a ride home and after a good shower we would proceed to Taling Pling restaurant, where the best way is to order on a whim –- fish, pork, chicken, vegetables –- and then discover each dish as it arrives. One must-try is the Plah Khung Lai Sua (Spicy Prawn Salad with roasted Chili Paste).

"Finally, if there is any energy left, a post-dinner drink at the Skybar at the top of Lebua at State Tower to take in the city nightscape and river views and its close to home as well because by this time this old body needs to sleep."

Jose Borja, Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel

"It would be for Thai food at the Home Kitchen restaurant on Lang Suan road. I love their fresh seafood and the flavors are so good, just like home cooking."

Marshall Orton, Pullman Bangkok King Power

"I would take them to eat at Chef David Thompson’s Nahm, who first made his name in Sydney with Darley Street Thai and Sailor’s Thai, and was the first chef to win a Michelin star for Thai food in London." 

Pierre-André Hauss, Grand Millennium Sukhumvit

"It will be definitely to Je Khai on Prachachun Road, Bang Sue. It’s my favorite restaurant here and I have been a regular customer for than seven years. Always very good"

If you could choose your last meal, what would it be?

Norbert Kostner, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

"For my last meal I would prepare and eat my all-time favorites, a simple but tasty pasta with lobster with a touch of the homemade XO Sauce that is served at The China House, or else with Shanghai Sauce. 

"Since I was born in South Tyrol, Italy, I would be most comfortable enjoying a dish closer to my original ties (although I consider Thailand home as well having lived here since 1970).  And the dish is so simple to make. Make lobster stock using the heads and tails of lobster. Sauté chopped onion and garlic in olive oil.

"Add to this lobster meat, a couple of drops of brandy or white wine, and parsley. Pour in the lobster stock and let it simmer. Finally add the cooked pasta to the pan with a bit of butter, salt and pepper to taste and stir. Lo and behold, it is ready to be served hot."  

More on CNNGo: Chef Norbert breaks down Bangkok street food

Crab salsa agnolotto with sweet corn relish and celeriac-parsley sauce, the fourth course at tonight's Chef Charity Dinner, cooked by chefs Nicolas Schneller and Martin Faist.Adrian W. O’Herlihy, Dusit Thani Pattaya

"My last meal would be one of my favorite menus that I serve: Carpaccio of Yellow Fin Tuna with marinated fennel arugula with fresh raspberries, black olive tapenade; Veloute of Corn and Fin de Clair oysters with roast capsicum and chili butter, crisp baby spinach; Steamed Turban of Dover Sole and Hor Mok Talay with coriander potato puree, red curry cream, coconut drizzle, baby cress; Iced Pomegranate Granita with a mint infusion; Pan-roasted Supreme of Mallard Duck and Confit of Duck in a Savoy cabbage leaf and butternut squash ravioli, natural duck jus; Valrhona Chocolate and Mandarin Orange terrine and banana ice cream, with Grand Marnier caramel sauce, and crème Anglaise; Friandises.

"And finally to finish off, chocolate-dipped strawberries, chocolate truffles, and of course, some Stilton and port as I prefer my cheese after the dessert."

Dominique Bugnand, Mandarin Oriental, Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

"It would be egg poached in a red wine sauce with garlic croutons. This is a very traditional dish from Burgundy, where I come from.

"My grandma used to cook this for me when I was young and it brings back very good memories: the smell, and the image of my grandma in the kitchen stirring the sauce in the black iron saucepan on the top of the wooden oven."

More on CNNGo: Chiang Mai's poshest ode to Lanna living

Michael A. Gremer, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Pan-fried mignon of duck foie gras, sweet butternut with Yuzu zest, mache salad leaves, pumpkin seed oil and Marsala-duck jus is the fifth course, by chefs Erwin Eberharter and Paul Hoeps."For me it would be Sauerbraten mit Thüringer Klöße und Rotkohl (Sweet and Sour Marinated Beef Pot Roast with Thuringian potato dumpling and braised red cabbage).

"This is one of my mother’s specialties and the best dish in the world. It is a real rare specialty and something we used to eat at Sunday family gatherings when I was a young boy.

"As it is time-consuming to prepare at home, it is mostly eaten on weekends and special occasions. The beef is marinated for 24 hours in a brine of vinegar, root vegetables, bay leaves, clove and other spices. It is then roasted and braised with a part of the brine. Finally the sauce for the roast is thickened and further enhanced with ginger spice bread before it is served with braised red cabbage and the potato dumpling.

"Your question reminded me that I don’t have to wait to make it my last meal, and should head back home to eat it more often and spend some time with the family."

Mark Hagenbach, Hyatt Erawan Bangkok

"My last meal would be crispy, stir-fried soft-shell crab in black pepper with garlic. I tasted this dish years ago and had forgotten about it until I returned to Bangkok and saw it on a menu. It was just as I remembered, truly a taste sensation." 

Philippe Gaudal, Landmark Bangkok

"It’s something I cannot answer as I have eaten so many good things in my life already. I also think it is not really what you eat but more who you share it with. That is important to me." 

Paul Hoeps, Centara Grand at CentralWorld

"My last dish would be inspired by a memory from my childhood -- going out hunting with my father in the German forests and then eating Sunday lunch at home.

"It would be juniper-braised venison with potato dumpling and fresh forest mushrooms, accompanied by a bottle of Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2005 and the location in a European forest during spring."

 

  

 

 

 10 of Bangkok's best street food stalls

An expert on the city's top street eats shares her personal favorites and offers some advice for wannabe culinary crusaders

Chawadee Nualkhair is the author of “Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls, a guide to where, how and what to eat at the best street food stalls in Bangkok. We asked her to share a few of her personal street food favorites as well as some eating safety tips.
Few cities can rival Bangkok when it comes to street food variety and quality.
Spicy noodles, glistening rice porridges, wobbly pork legs, even gem-like sweets. All can be had for a handful of change and minimal fuss.
Although every Bangkokian worth his or her food cred has their own particular favorite, these 10 dishes are what beckon me back to the sweltering roadside again and again.

1. Oyster omelets at Nai Mong Hoy Tod

Nai Mong Hoy Tod's delicious oyster omelet. To some diners, streetside oyster omelets might sound like the height of idiocy, but these mollusk-topped creations are some of the tastiest street treats in the city.
Nai Mong offers you a choice of mussel or oyster, with soft or crispy dough, but extra-crispy oyster (hoy nongrom grob grob) is highly recommended: buoyant, crunchy egg topped with a plump, briny taste of the ocean.
539 Soi Prapachai. +66 (0)2 623 1890. Open daily, 11 a.m-1:30 a.m. daily. 65 baht/plate

2. Stuffed flat noodles at Guaythiew Lod

This Chinese-style delicacy is unabashedly, exuberantly delicious: stuffed to overflowing with pork, shiitake mushrooms and squid, topped with bean sprouts, scallion and deep-fried garlic and bathed in a sweet soy sauce.
Look closely for the added bonus -- tiny dried shrimp embedded in the noodle dough.
Yaowarat Road, Chinatown. in front of Seiko watch shop. +66 (0)2 225 3558. Open 6:30 p.m.-1 a.m. except Mondays. 35 baht/bowl

3. Chinese-style egg noodles at Bamee Slow

A bowl of noodles at Bamee Slow, topped with barbecued pork and a hard-boiled egg. This is usually the first place I head to after a long trip away from home. Over the years, the taciturn owner has built up a loyal clientele willing to wait up to half an hour for a bowl of noodles, but every regular has his or her favorite order.
Mine is “dry noodles” (bamee hang), topped with slivered, blanched greens, barbecued pork and a hard-boiled egg, with the minced pork broth separate.
Entrance to Ekamai Soi 19. Open daily, 8:30 p.m.-3 a.m. 55 baht/bowl

4. Samosas at Samosa

In a city full of soupy noodles and rice dishes, Samosa offers a rare glimpse of the Indian subcontinent in the form of deep-fried dough triangles stuffed with spicy potatoes and accompanied by a deliciously tart tamarind sauce.
Unlike most Thai street food, these samosas are just as good, if not better, the next day at home.
Chakrapet Road, next to India Emporium. +66 (0)2 222 0090. Open 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Monday-Saturday. 10 a.m-6:30 p.m. Sunday. 10 baht each.

5. Crab omelets at Jay Fai

Jay Fai's crab omelets are heavier on crab than egg, making them worth the high price. Defying the belief that all street food is cheap, this crab omelet (kai jiew pu), once a whopping 500 baht, now costs a ridiculous 800 baht, thanks to soaring food prices, says Jay Fai.
That said, the mammoth chunks of fresh, sweet crab and the slight, almost delicate net of egg binding them -- inspired by the way the Japanese make their egg omelets -- are pretty much worth it.
327 Mahachai Road. +66 (0)2 223 9384. Open 3 p.m.-2 a.m. except Saturdays 

6. Thai-Muslim yellow chicken rice at Khao Mok Gai on Convent Road

Another hard-to-find treat on Bangkok sidewalks is this yellow chicken rice -- also referred to as Thai-Muslim chicken “biryani” -- flavored with a hearty helping of “Islam spices” (krung tet Islam).
A lunchtime favorite among the white-collar set, this dish is rounded out by a helping of super-spicy chicken soup (30 baht).
Convent Road, in front of Bua Restaurant, open lunchtime on weekdays, 30-50 baht/plate

7. Chicken wings in broth at Guaythiew Pik Gai Sai Nampung

Guaythiew Pik Gai Sai Nampung's famed chicken wing soup. Go early if you want to catch the chicken wings in chicken broth (gow low pik gai), crowned with a sprinkling of cowslip blossoms (dok kachorn) -- it runs out by 10 a.m.
If you are not a morning person, consider the giem ee (Chinese hand-rolled noodles), another treat that is difficult to find streetside in Bangkok.
392/20 Sukhumvit. +66 (0)2 258 1958. Open daily, 9 a.m.-3:30 p.m. 45 baht/bowl

8. Grilled meatballs at Anamai

You might think grilled meatballs will be good no matter where you buy them. Unfortunately, there are a lot more misses than hits on Bangkok's streets.
Beef meatball fans should trek to this noodle stand next to Bangkok Hospital for a few sticks, grilled over an open flame and slathered in a sweet chili sauce.
3 Soonvijai Soi 7. +66 (0)2 318 1606. Open daily, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m., 40 baht/5 sticks

9. Egg noodles in tom yum broth at Gobu Rot Sing

Gobu Rot Sing's tom yum noodles are worth the trouble it takes to find the place. This noodle stand is hard to find. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t keep trying -- the noodles, surrounded by a peanut-studded sweet-spicy lemongrass broth and topped with two soft-boiled eggs, is worth the trouble.
Klong Jan, across from Nida. +66 (0)86 884 1453, open 24 hours, 45 baht/bowl

10. Thai dessert at Nam Kaeng Sai Khun Muk

The sky is the limit when it comes to placing an order here: a dizzying array of dumplings, jellies and fruit, in coconut milk, lumyai juice or ginger syrup, topped by a mound of shaved ice awaits whomever can make up their minds.
The result is incredibly refreshing, the perfect end to any street food meal.
Sukhumvit Soi 38, open 6:30 p.m.-2 a.m. 20 baht/bowl
More on CNNGo: Bangkok's 6 best street food hoods

Tips for hunting down the city's best street eats

The best way to really appreciate Bangkok street food is to explore the city yourself. While satisfying your own culinary wanderlust, keep in mind the following food safety tips:

• Look at the condiment tray. If it is clean, the food is likely to be hygienic too.
• Are there are a lot of customers? Many patrons mean good turnover and the smaller likelihood of rotting food.
• Dirty dishes on the sidewalk next to the cooking station? No thanks -- you’ll probably be better off somewhere a little cleaner.
• Think like a locavore. For example, if you are in the mountains and the specialty is “oyster omelets," the mode of transport and method of storage become very important. If you are unsure of how trustworthy the food stand is, don’t order from it.

 

   

 

Best Bangkok street food hoods

Eat your way through these zesty city food zones, jammed with some of Bangkok's most delicious grub

Foodies around the world talk about Bangkok’s street food culture, and rightly so. Every resident has a favorite stall and a favorite dish, and many an argument has started over a conversation about who has the best sauce, the tastiest noodles, the finest broth or the most delicious roast beast.

But while there are plenty of stalls on plenty of streets, there are only a few really standout neighborhoods with a sparkling collection of sois and alleys full of different eating options.

Here are some of the best.

1. Victory Monument

The easiest way to know if a Thai food stall is any good: no empty tables, like at this crammed Victory Monument eatery. Around this monument to a brief 1941 scuffle between Thai and French forces in Indo-China lies a maze of side-streets and alleys crammed with all kinds of food.

One particularly good stop, just northeast of the monument at the end of Ratchawithi soi 10 and across a little bridge, is Sud Yod Guey Tiaow Reua (Best Boat Noodles). Nine baht gets you a small bowl of delicious boat noodles; eat 20 bowls and you get a free Pepsi.

But the biggest concentration of food lies on the southern side of the traffic circle where hip Thai teens eat and drink late into the night.

If you want a bit more selection, head south down Phaya Thai Road to Soi Rang Nam, which is packed from end to end with restaurants, street stalls and pubs.

Getting there: Take the BTS to Victory Monument. Best time to visit: Evenings.

2. Tha Phra Chang Pier/Road

Phra Chan Road's dozens of stalls have pretty much all Thai food cravings covered. If there’s one food rule in Thailand, it’s that the area surrounding any university will be a gastronomic gold mine.

This little cluster of sois and restaurants on the river at the end of Phra Chan Road and beside Thammasat University is more than enough proof.

Out front, it's mostly shops selling clothes and jewelry, but toward the river tiny hallways and crowded wall-to-wall eateries sell nearly every Thai dish imaginable, and many of the seats come with a relaxing river view.

Further down Maharat Road -- past the amulet market -- Tha Chang Pier is another riverside area densely populated with all manner of food and dessert carts.

Getting there: Take the Chao Phraya Express ferry to Tha Chang Pier. Best time to visit: Weekdays, during the day.

3. Khao San Road

A tray of chicken satay cooked up by a Khao San Road vendor. Hear us out on this one. This beastly, infamous tangle of roads, sois and alleys populated with a startling variety of examples of the human race is also one of the best places to tuck in.

True, much of it is watered-down to appeal to the widest variety of palettes, but if it’s variety you want, you’ve come to the right place.

Everything from falafel and Burger King to khao moo daeng and ginger soup is cooked up here. A quick walk over to Soi Ram Buttree, which curls back behind Wat Chana Songkhram, will get you even more food, but the focus here is more on drinking establishments. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

Getting there: Take a taxi. Best time to visit: Anytime, Khao San never stops.

4. Charoen Krung Road/State Tower

Down in the streets below this mess of buildings, surrounding Charoen Krung Road, are hundreds of great Thai food stalls. This stretch of the long and well-known road -- built in 1861 to satisfy uppity foreigners who wanted a wide road for their horse-drawn carriages so they could get out for some fresh air -- is crammed with sois and sub-sois offering all kinds of food.

Beginning at the base of State Tower at the foot of Silom Road, a walk south on Charoen Krung toward the BTS will offer up enough grub to satisfy any hungry soul.

Nip into Soi Si Wiang for some great khao soi gai or just stay on Charoen Krung for a sizeable selection of stalls.

At the end, turn right into Charoen Krung 50 and finish up with a roti, an artery-clogging log of fried dough, banana, eggs and sugar.

Best time to go: Weekdays between lunch and late afternoon. 

5. Soi Ari

Soi Ari might be the scene of heavy gentrification these days, but fortunately its street food culture remains strong. Once a cloistered little neighborhood in the 'burbs, Ari is now home to a Starbucks and an Apple retailer, among other global brands.

Despite this, the little cluster of sois around the Ari BTS station has remained a funky food oasis. Phahon Yothin 7 is the main drag and is lined with all manner of food stalls, open until well after dinner.

The sub-sois and side streets branching off of here contain tons of great choices as well for hungry explorers to sniff out.

Getting there: Take the BTS to Ari station. Best time to go: Any time, especially weekends.

6. Huay Kwang Market 

A Huay Kwang favorite, moo daeng.Another rule of Bangkok food: follow the crowd.

The area around Huay Kwang intersection is populated by large, garish massage parlors, which means lots of people at all hours of the night.

While known as more of a market area, you can find some great food if you turn left off Ratchadapisek Road and follow Pracharat Bamphen Road for a few hundred meters.

It’s a great place to come after a night out, as the stalls serve food well into the wee hours, and the eccentric crowds always make for a good night of people-watching.

The red pork dishes (moo daeng) around here are particularly good.

Getting there: Take the MRT to Huay Kwang station. Best time to go: Any night of the week, after 11 p.m.

Did we miss your favorite eating neighborhood? Tell us about it in the comments section below

 

  

Hunting for Bangkok’s hidden dining greats

A CNNGo reader shares three of his favorite lesser-known Bangkok
restaurants, which he discovered with the help of in-the-know locals

Bangkok is a city full of fantastic food, but most of its true great restaurants are difficult to find. That's because they're located slightly off the beaten path and known only to the locals.
Armed with the ability to read Thai and some cooperative Thai friends, I have come across some wonderful places to eat. Here are a few of my favorites.

Ran Arhan Jaan Diaw

In the shadows of MBK, Ran Gan Ahan Jaan Diaw is a favorite among Chulalongkorn University students. Open late to accommodate the students, this is a great option after a night out on the town. Serving an extensive menu of classic Thai food, it’s guaranteed to leave you satisfied.
Best Dishes: For starters, you can order pad prik Thai tam talay (vegetables, peppers and seafood). Large dishes are 70 baht. Small dishes served with rice are 30-45 baht.
Chula Saca 2. Tel: +65 (0)85 165 2183. Open daily, evenings till late. Menu: Thai

Rod Dee Det

Rod Dee Det is a favorite among Thais wanting a quick eat, meaning it could be difficult to find a seat during regular eating hours. The chicken stew is well worth the wait; you'll probably want more than just one serving.
Its prime location in Siam Square makes it a great place to eat either before a movie or during a day of shopping.
Best Dishes: Chinese-style beef stew with rice, 30 baht. Chicken stew and rice, 30 baht.
Siam Square Soi 7. Open daily, lunch and dinner. Menu: English, Thai 

Ran Kuay Jap Nai Ake

Located in the heart of Chinatown, this popular eatery specializes in quick and easy Thai-Chinese food. Its location makes it a perfect place to eat while exploring temples and searching for market deals.
Best Dishes: Kuay jap, 40 baht. The place is named after it! Crispy pork, ground pork and white noodles in broth.
Yaowrarat 9 (right next to the sign). Open daily, lunch and dinner. Menu: English, Thai


About the author: Michael Hoyt has lived in Thailand for the past four years. He is on a quest to find truly great street food. In his spare time he travels around Asia in search of the “land of milk and honey” for five dollars a day.
Michael submitted this piece as part of CNNGo’s iReport section.

 

 

A street food eating tour of Ratchatewi

This
busy Bangkok neighborhood is becoming more and more developed, but its
street food offerings remain as diverse and delicious as ever

With Bangkok’s Phaya Thai SARL airport link station now up and running, the city’s downtown Ratchathewi area nearby has been the focus of major development in recent months.
Condos and sparkly new 7-Elevens are going up in every direction, breathing new life into this run-down section of the city. But what hasn’t changed is the fact that Ratchatewi has some of the best late-night street food in Bangkok.
We highlight some of the finest in this eating tour of the BTS Ratchatewi station area.
A variety of barbecued street meats for sale by a Ratchatewi street vendor.

Start at the southern part of the BTS station (the area closest to Siam). Here is where you come for a major protein fix. The area is always packed with groups of people in their business suits, munching on whole salty fish, or chicken on a stick.
A sweet woman sells her delicious Thai desserts.
Walking further northward, a Thai dessert cart serving coconut- and custard-infused goodies for 10-20 baht apiece is as much the area’s trademark as is the smile of the lady who sells them. Nearby, a crepe lady serves up delicious dinner and dessert crepes in a manner of seconds.
A cart of freshly squeezed juice made from Mandarin oranges.

For a quick vitamin fix, there’s fresh orange juice, or the staple fruit stand selling pineapple, watermelon and custard apples. Steamed corn, fried chicken and peanuts are also available.
A street vendor tends to his tom yum soup broth.
Just opposite these stands is the tom yum soup guy, serving up hearty bowls of this famed specialty. Pepsi, green tea, and water are on sale at a cart close by, but the more adventurous should try the fresh sugar cane juice -- a Ratchatewi staple.
A sign advertises what just might be Bangkok's best pad Thai.
One of the major highlights of the street is the pad Thai stand. Forget that this dish might be considered a clichéd standby for tourists and backpackers in Thailand who aren’t sure what else to eat.
Many (this writer included) have declared it the best pad Thai in all of Thailand. It’s not uncommon for first-time diners to order a second helping (it is, afterall, only 30 baht).
Further north is a soup stand that is usually the least crowded of the Ratchatewi stalls, but the soup is definitely full of flavor and delicious. Wash it all down at the smoothie stand, which serves up thick strawberry shakes for 30 baht.
Ratchatewi's Lopburi Kitchen serves your usual Thai classics, like cashew chicken, tom yum goong, tom kha gai and curries along with plenty of seafood options.

Continuing north, the street stalls culminate in the most popular street food venue of all -- Lopburi Kitchen. Of course, you won’t see the name in English so just look for the biggest street stall at the most northern end of Ratchatewi station.
This place, more of an outdoor restaurant than a street food stall, is always packed. They have an English menu, complete with photos. Recommended dishes are the tom yum gai, Penang curry and pad siew.
All stalls at Ratchatewi are open around 6 p.m. and stay open until 1 a.m. Happy eating!

 

 

 

 The central Bangkok food court experience

Five city dining centers mix street food favorites with karaoke and ladyboy-made som tam